Customizations

The following excludes hard and soft tops, tonneau, and car storage covers; see also orders. Alphabetical order by vendor; alternatives indicated by matching numbers, ie. ⇒ 1.

¹ no extra charge: FFR 2008 Winter Sale, included in FFR 3.1 Complete Kit or Breeze EzePak, or custom fabrication at minimal expense
² also North Racecars, Tri-State, APE Products turn signal assemblies. North Racecars unit puts switch closer to dash, needs no bezel, moves steering wheel closer to the driver (away from the dash), and uses original bent-arm switch ($240).
³ also Levy Racing $135, $175 leather, Finish Line arm rest/map pocket $195, and Finish Line pleated door panel $275

The most involved body modification is the so-called dropped butt that lowers the rear body edge, changes the rear contour, and also shrinks the available trunk space. Without a direct side-by-side comparison, the difference between the original FFR perky butt and the modified dropped butt is hard to discern.

In general, this modification involves three steps:

1. dropped butt changes to the chassis and truck area that allow a lower body shell
2. rounding out the perky point on the trunk where license plate mounts
3. reworking the shape of the rear wheel opening and the contour just behind the rear wheel opening

The last two steps may be performed without actually dropping the rear in the complete modification. Moreover, the majority of the appearance enhancement can be achieved by rounding the truck, reworking the rear wheel area, and widening the tail light mounting pads (see separate discussion below), which is considerably less involved.

Preparing the tail light pads

Widened tail light pads eliminate the crowding with the FFR large diameter lights

In addition to major rear body mods like the dropped butt discussed above, the tail light mounting pads can be widened slightly so that the tail lights mount flush with the body. Aside from personal taste, this modification moves the body form closer to the vintage Cobra look.

In the unaltered Mk3.1 body, the round tail lights, now DOT approved, extend just beyond the flat mounting surface, giving a somewhat squeezed presentation. Extending the platform provides a more pleasing placement of the lights.

Finish Line sells smaller diameter Lucas lights ∼ Marker L-692 ∼ with a 3.25” diameter that are close to the original vintage Shelby Cobra appearance. These fit on the existing platform without the “crowded” cluster look. These Lucas lights are also available in clear or amber for the front turn signal lights, if desired.

It is also possible to substitute rectangular tail lights, similar to those used in some vintage Cobras, but further platform modification is required. The tail lights have small tangs that complete the electrical ground; either fashion a rubber gasket with notches to accommodate the tangs, or file small indentations into the body to accept them for a flush mounting.

Aside from the dropped butt discussed above, the other major Mk3 body modification involves the hood.

Riveted hood detail from Dick Smith's famous 427 Cobra roadster CSX 3035 Number 198

Original aluminum Cobras, like racing icon Dick Smith's top speed (198 mph) champion 427 Cobra Number 198, had rivets to attach a separate hood scope in contrast to the smooth one-piece molded fiberglass body of the Mk3.

The modification requires an add-on hood scoop that replaces the molded scoop (see parts above). Rivets are then added around the hood scoop, and along the front leading edge of the hood itself.

The underside the hood can also be painted to imitate a metallic look.

The leading edge that extends into the scoop can also be elongated for a more period-correct appearance.

Various rubber trim options are available to insure the best, no-vibration fit between the hood and body.

Rolled Rage edge using a 1" PVC cut-in-half pipe mold.

The vinylester (or vinyl ester) composite body is a hand-laid 0.188” lamination with a 0.015” black gel coat outer finish, giving the body shell about an overall 0.2” thickness. As opposed to an aluminum frame that can easily roll to a finished edge, the composite body process results in a more abrupt and “flat” edge appearance. These edges can then be rolled, or filled, to mirror the appearance of the vintage aluminum bodies.

Rolling an edge involves adding a filler material, like Evercoat Gage, either with a mold or in successively applied layers, to achieve a new rounded profile.

In addition to a rolled cockpit edge, the dash hoop can be filled back 0.75” to 1” into the cockpit as per the classic 427 S/C look (although a popular Cobra icon, only 30 427 S/C models were actually made).

Optional modifications are summarized below.

1. widen/finish fender flange lips
2. cockpit dash and rear rolled edges blended into door edges
3. round front radiator opening
4. round side louver openings
5. round out side rocker panels
6. round front oil cooler opening
7. round out other small openings like quickjack holes

A comparison of FFR and FinishLine side louvers: FFR reveals interior due to single-blade design while FinishLine covers the opening completely. The aluminium can be powder coated to match the body paint color for a classic vintage appearance (see Non-kit appearance below).

FinishLine louver is attached with industrial velcro using L-brackets

The Complete Kit includes side louvers, cut from an aluminum sheet, that are difficult to fit and attach to the fiberglass body. A typical installation involves bonding the louvers to the interior of the body shell with epoxy like J-B Weld, a technical that does not permit future access through the louver openings. In addition, the FFR louver single-blade design shows the engine compartment interior.

The alternative FinishLine design finishes off the louver opening and provides an L-bracket mounting for the interior fiberglass body that can be attached with industrial velcro.

A few modifications remove some fiberglass kit car “giveaways”:

The vintage Cobra aluminum body could be seen on underbody front fender above the header and behind the front wheel. It is possible to paint these areas Semi Gloss Silver to suggests an aluminum look, but the wheel well liners make this unnecessary.