Inspection and Body Removal

The FFR chassis is manufactured on a jig but no two chassis are exactly identical. Tolerances should generally be within an 1/8” or so. Carefully adjust the four jack stands holding the chassis so that they are exactly under the main round tubing and spaced equally. Make sure that all jack stands are set at the same height (any height is fine, but they all need to be the same).

With the jack stands in place, use a T-square to measure from the ground up to the ends of the main tubing, front and rear, left and right. The absolute height does not matter, but the relative heights should be within 1/8” left and right. If the chassis falls outside this tolerance, double check that the jack stands are resting on a level surface. Call FFR if the cause of the imbalance cannot be determined.

Chassis, with body on, set up on floor jacks in the work space

Assuming that the chassis falls within tolerance limits, use a T-square to measure the maximum height of each fender on the fiberglass body. Again, left and right measurements should be within an 1/8”.

If the body is not within tolerance limits, remove all mounting hardware, starting from the rear and working towards the front of the body. Place short 1/8” thick strips of rubber or similar material on the following body/chassis pressure points:

• left and right sides of front hood cutout that meets frame as it bends downward
• left and right sides of curved cockpit chassis hoop that meets the cockpit body front edge
• left and right sides of trunk chassis hoop that meets trunk body

Starting with the front, push the body down and back until it contacts the strips resting on the frame, and secure the front mounting area with clamps. Check front body balance left and right by measuring the maximum heights of the front fenders (do not measure from any frame mounting points since these are related on the chassis and presumably already in balance).

If the body measurements are the same on left and right, move to the rear. If not, continue to position the body and hold with clamps and tape. When in balance, note whether the front mounting holes are still aligned with the front mounting bracket.

Install the quick jack bolts and check rear body balance left and right by measuring the maximum heights of the rear fenders. If in balance, note whether the quick jack bolts are still straight; If not, mark the new hole location(s) needed to square up the mounting bolts.

Along the side body, make sure that cockpit edges front and back are equal on the left and right side of the body. Make adjustments to the side mounting bolts if necessary.

After aligning the body, drill any new mounting holes. The incorrect holes will be filled in during the body painting process. While tedious, a correct body alignment will insure that panels fit properly.

Fasten rear cockpit panel for markup

Before removing the body, several marks and measurements should be made. With all duct tape removed from the body and panels, check the orientation of the rear cockpit aluminum panel. Re-center the panel (it was previously taped in place), then mark and drill positioning holes at the bottom, inset 2” from the seat belt tab, and at the sides; drill corresponding holes on other side of the rear panel.

Using temporary fasteners, affix the rear panel to the chassis.

• looking from trunk towards front of chassis, check rear panel fit using a Sharpie on its side pressed up against the underside of the fiberglass body (about 3/8” clearance); mark a line for any excess to be trimmed off
• check inside trunk aluminum panels, especially driver side rear and side clearances
• check firewall clearance in front of cockpit, especially small firewall extension piece on the passenger side
• check all around the mounted fiberglass body, and mark all any other aluminum panels with less than Sharpie clearance width for trimming; this Sharpie gap provides sufficient space for chassis bulb seals on the finished body
• mark dotted lines showing hood line on driver's footbox top panel for future reference
• note measurement from hood line to back of firewall for master cylinder remote reservoir clearance; make sure that the top of the reservoir cap can be removed without hitting the underside of the body shell and mark maximum height on firewall panel

A magnetic pick-up tool, shown below, is helpful for removing and replacing the body spacing washers. Before removing the main body shell, keep a careful record of body mounting bolt, washer, and fastener hardware that reflects the verified body fitment, as follows:

Body Mounting Hardware

Note: outside refers to visible exterior; quick jack sleeve nuts are mounted outside with bolt head on the inside

Mounting hardware in front, rear, and side locations

Remove mounting hardware from the front first, followed by the side and rear fasteners. Before removing the body, check that all mounting hardware has been removed. Position the wood cockpit brace to minimize stress on the lower door support part of the body shell.

The body shell should be carried by either four people — one positioned at each wheel well — or with two people — one positioned at the front and rear, respectively.

• lift body rear first, clearing the trunk aluminum panels
• pull slightly at the side to clear the chassis
• slide body forward to clear quick jack supports
• lift clear of chassis
• place body on buck for storage

Cockpit brace for transporting body