trace chassis tubing locations and panel-to-panel overlaps with Sharpie
remove panels, and with rivet template and auto punch (Breeze), mark rivet hole pattern
drill rivet holes and, where previously indicated for body clearance, trim panels
using drilled aluminum panels as templates, drill chassis holes and trial fit sheet metal with temporary
Cleco fasteners
make trim and bend modifications as necessary to achieve a tight fit
Chassis welds may keep panels from properly mating with tubing. If necessary, cut or file aluminum so that welds do not impact the way panels are positioned.
Space rivet holes about every 3 inches, except in the foot box areas where spacing should be every 2 inches (foot boxes are mostly tied to adjacent panels and not the frame). Transmission tunnel top will be installed with screws, not rivets, so that it can be removed for access.
replace the driver side front footbox with the packaged aluminum panel designed for the Wilwood pedal assembly and discard the older version of the front footbox panel
drill a gas cap grounding hole in the passenger side rear trunk panel side
spray paint the passenger roll bar mounting bracket (it is not powder coated like the driver side mount); mask off the area that will hold the support tube and use a primer followed by glossy black automotive paint
After powder coating, the panels will be installed in a certain order. In general, if you do not need to install a panel, wait until part of the build progress depends on it.
Panel installation should be done with silicon to seal the seams between the aluminum and chassis tubing. Spread silicon along all surfaces that will be joined, smooth out with your finger, and then quickly cleco the panel in place. Make small adjustments to align all drilled holes. When properly aligned, rivet in place.
